Hand rolled edge tutorial

Some of the things you need to make a hand sewn rolled edge.

I love my vintage handkerchiefs, I really do!

They are dainty and girly and cute.

The thing is: they are usually small and I like my handkerchiefs a bit bigger for everyday use.

I like having them with me when I am out and about. They come in handy for all kinds of things, like as a towel for drying your hands, when the restroom only has those gross air dryers, or as a napkin, or to tie and wrap things.

We use bandanas for handkerchiefs. But most bandanas have paisley or the usual "bandana" patterns. I wanted something different.

I have tons of nice cotton fabrics.

Why not make my own?

My sewing machines are both not working right now. Besides, I like handsewing.

So off I went. Picking fabrics and gathering my notions.

And then I was thinking maybe I should make it a tutorial? I mean most people will use a sewing machine, but what if you need a quick little fix on something and don't want to drag out the machine, or are somewhere without one?

So.... I show you how to hand roll a seam.

Since I am.right handed, this tutorial is written from my perspective. If you are left handed, simply flip the instructions. Instead from right to left, you will be working from left to right. ❤

First gater all your things. You need:

●fabric, obviously lol

●scissors and or a rotary cutter if you have one.

●thread matching your fabric. I usually never match thread to fabric, because I like the look of being able to see the stitches, and because I use reclaimed and thrifted thread, so having the right colour is not always possible. But this is one instance where I break my rule and match it up as best I can with what I have.

●a fabric marker. I use a pencil, or fabric chalk actually

●a ruler

●a cutting mat, if you have one.

●a sewing needle. I love to use Milliners needles. They are nice and long. Some people prefer shorter needles. Pick one that fits your preferences and your thread and fabric.

●your thread conditioner, if you use that sort of thing. I do, because tangled thread sucks.

I made a video and added it at the very bottom of the tutorial. It shows how I do it.

First measure your fabric (which is something I rarely do for things that don't have to fit.) I eyeball it and cut. But you certainly can measure and make it more precise. Remember to add 1/4inch seam allowance all around.

After you cut the fabric, mark the seam allowance on the wrong side of the fabric all the way around.

Marked seam allowance 1/4 inch from the edge

Now you can go and iron half of that seam allowance down to the wrong side. And if you are sewing some couture piece, you really should do it as precise as you can.

But we are not seaming for Coco Chânèl. We are making a handkerchief. Lol. I just thought I should mention the proper way.

Thread your needle. Slide the thread between your thumb and forefinger a few times to get rid of the overtwist. Wax and knot your thread, then set it aside.

I usually start my rolled hems by pre-rolling a good bit (about 2 to 4 inches) of edging. With the wrong side of the fabric facing you, hold one corner in your right hand and roll the edge down (towards the marked line) with the thumb and index finger of your left hand. Roll the fabric as tightly as you can all the way to the marked line. You want the raw Edge to be rolled under. Then finger press by pinching it between the nail of your right thumb and your right index finger and sliding those two fingers over the fabric to crease it. The video shows better what I am describing here.

The rolling works best, if you have good tension on the fabric and slightly breathing on your fingers to moisten them helps as well.

Keep rolling until you have at least 2 or 3 inches rolled. Or you can pre roll the entire side, if you like. You will have to slide your fingers of both hands along the rolled edge while you are rolling it, to keep the tension.

Then slide them back to the beginning. Now tighten the roll one more time at the beginning, then slightly roll it back about half way and anchor the thread on the rolled part.

Anchor your thread on the rolled edge, so the knot will be hidden inside the roll

Move the needle over about 1/8th of an inch and insert it on the seam line you marked. Take just a tiny bite of fabric. Pull the thread through, but do not pull it tight. Then insert the needle again into the rolled part of the fabric and take a bite there. Again pull the thread through, but do not pull it tight.

Your stitching is always angled about 1/8th of an inch to the left.

The stitches should make a sort of zig zag.

See how the stitches zigzag?

Make between 3 to 5 zig zag stitches that way. No more, or it will be hard to pull the thread evenly. Then pull on the working thread and watch the seam close up.

After pulling the stitches closed

Move along the fabric in this way. Keep rolling the edge tightly, then unroll it slightly, and keep sewing until the side is finished. Start all over again on the second side.

I have made a video to show how to do the rolling and the stitching as you go along.

Just in case my words don't make any sense. It happens...😉

It is hard to sew while a camera obscures your view lol. Hope it helps anyway.